Independent guide · Reader supported

Know the glassbefore you buy it.

Redfield has been a name on American riflescopes since 1909 — through Denver, through Leupold, and now through Academy. We explain what each era actually built, what the specs mean in the field, and which optic fits the rifle you own.

1909Founded in Denver
5Optic categories covered
2021Brand sold to Academy
SIGHT PICTURE DUPLEX 9× / 40 MM 1/4 MOA CLICK

What we cover

Five categories, one question each

Every optic type answers a different problem. Start with the problem, not the price tag.

Magnified · 1–14×

Riflescopes

The default answer for aimed fire past 75 yards. Magnification range, tube diameter, reticle plane and turret type decide whether it fits your rifle.

  • 3–9×40 for general big game
  • 4–12× and up for varmint work
  • Fixed 4× for rimfire and brush
How to pick one
Unmagnified · 2–6 MOA

Red dot & reflex sights

Both eyes open, no eye relief to manage, no parallax to speak of. Built for speed inside 100 yards on carbines, shotguns and handguns.

  • Dot size trades speed for precision
  • Mounting footprint decides compatibility
  • Battery life is the real spec sheet
Compare dot sizes
Observation · 15–60×

Spotting scopes

For finding animals before you move and calling shots you cannot see through recoil. Objective size and glass quality set your last legal hour of light.

  • Angled bodies for glassing from a pack
  • Straight bodies for the bench
  • A tripod is not optional
Angled or straight
Laser · Yards / Metres

Rangefinders

The single cheapest accuracy upgrade most shooters can make. Advertised maximum range is measured on reflective targets, not on deer.

  • Angle compensation for steep country
  • Beam divergence beats raw range
  • Scan mode for moving game
Read the specs properly
Hardware · 1" / 30 mm

Mounts & rings

More zeros are lost here than anywhere else in the system. Correct height, correct base, correct torque — in that order.

  • Picatinny, Weaver and dovetail bases
  • Ring height set by objective clearance
  • Torque values you can actually check
Mounting walkthrough
Reference · Free

Guides & history

Which Redfield era a scope came from tells you who made it, where, and whether anyone still services it. That matters most on the used market.

  • Buying guide and glossary
  • Brand timeline, 1909 to today
  • Warranty routes that actually work
Open the timeline

Start here

Match the optic to the job

If you only read one table on this site, read this one. Distances assume a rifle and load you have already zeroed and shot at those ranges.

Recommended optic type, magnification and reticle by intended use
What you're doingOptic typeTypical specReticle
Whitetail in timber, under 150 ydRiflescope2–7×33 or 3–9×40Duplex
Open-country big game, 150–400 ydRiflescope3–9×40 or 4–12×40Duplex or BDC
Prairie dogs and coyotesRiflescope4–12×40 to 6–18×44Fine duplex or mil-dot
Rimfire plinking and small gameRiflescopeFixed 4×32 or 3–9×32Duplex, parallax set 50 yd
Home-defence carbine, under 75 ydRed dot / reflex1× with 2–4 MOA dotSingle dot
Turkey and slug shotgunRed dot / reflex1× with 4–6 MOA dotSingle dot or circle-dot
Finding game before the stalkSpotting scope20–60×60 or 20–60×80
Confirming holds past 300 ydRangefinder800–1,200 yd class
Reading a scope name

3–9×40 means the magnification adjusts from 3× to 9×, and the front objective lens is 40 mm across. Bigger objectives gather more light but sit higher over the bore, which forces taller rings and changes your cheek weld. Bigger is not automatically better.

In order

Five checks before you spend

These are sequential. Each one narrows the field, and getting them out of order is how people end up with a scope that will not mount, will not focus, or will not hold zero.

  1. Confirm what the rifle will accept

    Drilled and tapped receiver, integral rail, or grooved rimfire dovetail? This decides your base before it decides your scope.

  2. Set your honest maximum distance

    Not the distance you hope to shoot — the distance you have actually practised to. Most hunting is settled inside 200 yards, and 3–9× covers it.

  3. Choose magnification, then objective

    Pick the top-end magnification you need, then the smallest objective that still gives you light at that power. This keeps the scope low and the rifle balanced.

  4. Pick a reticle you can use under pressure

    A duplex disappears against dark timber less than a busy Christmas-tree reticle. Complexity you cannot read at dusk is worse than none.

  5. Budget for rings, a torque driver and ammunition

    Rings and a level cost real money, and zeroing burns a box or two. Spend the last quarter of your budget here, not on more magnification.

Why the name matters

Four owners, one nameplate

Redfield started in Denver in 1909 and spent most of the twentieth century as one of the two dominant American scope makers, alongside Leupold. The Widefield's rectangular sight picture and the Accu-Range rangefinding reticle were genuinely ahead of their time.

The original company closed in 1998. The trademark passed through other hands before Leupold & Stevens bought it in 2008 and relaunched the line in 2009 with the Revolution, built in Oregon. In April 2021 Leupold sold the brand to Academy Sports + Outdoors, which now sells Redfield-branded optics as a house brand.

Practical upshot: when you look at a used Redfield, the era tells you who built it, roughly what glass is in it, and whether any factory still stands behind it.

Common questions

Straight answers

Are Redfield scopes still made?

Yes, but not by the company most people picture. Leupold & Stevens sold the Redfield brand rights to Academy Sports + Outdoors in April 2021, and Academy has sold Redfield-branded optics as an exclusive house brand since. The Leupold-era models built in Oregon between 2009 and 2021 — Revolution, Rebel, Battlezone — are discontinued and only appear on the used market.

Is this the official Redfield website?

No. This is an independent, reader-supported guide with no corporate connection to the Redfield trademark owner, Academy Sports + Outdoors, or Leupold & Stevens. We write about the optics and link to retailers; we do not make, distribute, or service them.

How do you make money?

Through the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and display advertising. If you buy something after clicking one of our Amazon links, we may earn a commission at no additional cost to you. That commission does not change what we write — see our affiliate disclosure.

Is a bigger objective lens always better in low light?

No. What your eye can use is the exit pupil — objective diameter divided by magnification. A human pupil dilates to roughly 5–7 mm in the dark, less as you age, so exit pupil beyond about 5 mm buys you very little. Lens coatings and glass quality usually matter more than raw objective size, and a big objective forces higher rings and a worse cheek weld.

What magnification do I actually need for deer?

For the overwhelming majority of North American deer hunting, 3–9× is enough, and most shots are taken between 4× and 6×. Higher magnification narrows your field of view, exaggerates every wobble, and makes finding an animal quickly harder. Buy magnification for the longest shot you have genuinely practised, not the longest shot you can imagine.

Can I reuse the rings from my old scope?

Only if the tube diameter, base pattern and height all match, and the rings are not marred or out of round from the last installation. Rings are the cheapest part of the system and the most common cause of a wandering zero. If there is any doubt, replace them.

Ready to compare current listings?

Availability on Redfield-branded optics moves around, and a lot of what turns up is legacy Leupold-era stock. Check live pricing before you commit.

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